If a bolted lower off was put in would it get removed? This is all as of 22nd july. Do not pull the abseil ropes. A very fine video, though if you wish to onsight the route, you had better refrain watching it! You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. Genuinely interested in your reasons, not looking for an argument. Always wanted to climb The Old Man of Stoer? Old Man of Stoer Hotels Flights to Lairg Things to do in Lairg Car Rentals in Old Man of Stoer Lairg Vacation Packages United Kingdom may have travel restrictions in place, … Many thanks, brought back memories of a day long ago (mid 80s) even if we did (accidentally) climb a different line after pitch 2. Les cotations données ci-dessous sont les cotations britanniques ! Fred is pulled across until he is over the landward side at which point he lowers himself to the ground. © UKClimbing Limited. Do you think the chain on the Inn Pin is also Appalling? Excursión fácil y sencilla que va desde el párking del faro de Stoer hasta la famosa formación rocosa. I think on a good day it would feel easier. The "Attachment Point" is just any number of cracks at ground level you can use that'll take trad gear. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. So either the rusted crappy pieces needed to be regularly replaced or something longer lasting and discreet could be put in. Other climbers in his party were Brian Roberton, Brian Henderson, and Paul Nunn. The Old Man of Stoer He stayed on The List for over 30 years before I came back to climb him with Carolyn Lyness in 2005. This iconic 60m (200ft) sea stack is situated on the beautiful northwest coast of Scotland. Sea stacks of NW Scotland. The Old Man of Stoer is a 60-metre-high (200 ft) sea stack of Torridonian sandstone in Sutherland, Scotland, close to villages of Culkein and Stoer and the nearby … Ross Keeble and Christian Rouse climbing the Old Man of Stoer sea stack on the 18/07/17. The Old Man of Stoer – Original Route . It can also be easily backed up when you get across. > Why do you think it is appalling in comparison to tat left at the top? The Old Man of Stoer, a sea stack, and the lighthouse on Stoer Head are directly accessible from Stoer, being less than 4 miles north/north west of the village. The stack climbing guide to Britain. Tom Patey died, aged 38, on 25 th May 1970, abseiling off another stack, The Maiden. Brilliant! A short video about climbing the super-classic Old Man of Stoer sea stack in the Far North West of Scotland. I must admit I was a bit shocked to find it and did think it was an odd place for a bolt, especially an expansion one. I was massively disappointed when I turned up in 2011 and found a bolt and in situ Tyrolean. Secure payments, 24/7 support and a Book with Confidence guarantee David told UKC: Climbers Alice Osmaston and Andrew Wielochowski. Watch Queue Queue It totally reduced the experience. That was one of those rare days when everything went according to plan – the weather was perfect on our first day in the area, there was a rope in place for the tyrolean traverse so we didn’t have to get wet, and the route gave four pitches of superb VS climbing. Brings it back! The Lewisian gneiss (pictured below) is around 3 billion years old, making it the oldest in Europe. Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver A Tom Patey classic VS first climbed in 1966 and much easier than appearances suggest. 7z¼¯' õ r é4% /Í àâBà ]( ¼`(—Õ 4‘Œ â /b¡³ ²Ä’ @–ª!ÏÏ; \ Y¯\cY­(É(¬Ò8Qž“Ý®•OÈ+>˜îÙ–Õ^ÊÞ? 2. It was on the on the horizontal wave washed platform. Visit the link at the bottom. If the sea is calm it is just possible to boulder-hop across the 9m channel at low water springs but in more normal conditions a tyrolean is required. Regarded by some as being the finest of the 3 old men this is an exhilarating route with impressive situations. We swam over to the left hand side (after the P1 traverse) and set up a rope to ferry the gear across which worked really well. Menu Toggle navigation Toggle navigation Toggle navigation Toggle navigation. Day 4: Climb the Old Man of Stoer The sea stack is a popular rock climbing destination and was first climbed in 1966. Met Office weather radar, satellite and synoptic charts. On top of that there’s Torridonian sandstone (almost 1 billion years old), Moinian schist and Durness limestone. Not necessarily so, the anchor can be retrieved and the last man can get back whilst staying dry at all states of the tide. David Linnett shared the video in the UKC of their ascent of Old Man of Stoer via Original Route. Barry Harper - 18/Jul/15: All belay/ab tat in very good nick as of 20JUL2013, probably due to recent filming here. I could at least understand the argument for putting one on the other side. Please don't stop making these films. The Route Topography. How did you find Am Buchaille compared to Stoer? The seaward side had a fairly dodgy looking peg that didn't exactly inspire confidence. With the tyrolean in place escape was scary but possible with the sea washing over the tyrolean. The Old Man of Stoer and the point. Funny isn't it, all these vids by brands about adventure yet nothing quite comes even close to Dave Linnets stuff. Cuillin Ridge 4 day Munro Course ; The Inaccessible Pinnacle; The Cuillin Ridge Traverse; Alpine Courses. You must be at least 18 years old to be eligible to trade in for credit or for an Apple Store Gift Card. The Needle, Hoy Sea stack climbing at its best. Sarah is fit but no way could she help Paul back down. The climbing on Am Buachaille was dirtier and the rock was a little less solid but not by much. You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. It's not a strenuous walk and could be … I found the climbing on the Original Route VS 5a on the Old Man of Stoer tough in places, particularly the initial greasy traverse. The Route Topography. Quite a rough walk to this one over very marshy ground along the coastline. Old man of Stoer Hiking trail in Culkein, Scotland (United Kingdom). Alpine Training; Team Away; Contact. It's a bit strange, there's not exactly an absence of gear placements. August 2015. I doubt much has changed, unless someone's been along and stuck a bolt in it. We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. ID3 ITRCK 1TYER 2016TENC$@Fraunhofer IIS MP3 v04.01.02 (fast)ÿûà@ û‰;A†Csœq‡y1(nJp ƒ bÀ ¦P § À ²%™Ø X¹Ã‹ï4Ëÿÿ ² b鱈 ÷vb ¦÷°} ›Uûhï ÝŒ ç qâ†;ä)…ÚSß½¤ß?¼$¼W¤ÚSû» The liberal chucking of climbing equipment on this natural feature saddened me. The Routes. English: Climbing Rubbish, Old Man of Stoer. It was a great adventure when we did it and should remain so. That was one of those rare days when everything went according to plan – the weather was perfect on our first day in the area, there was a rope in place for the tyrolean traverse so we didn’t have to get wet, and the route gave four pitches of superb VS climbing. This is climbing it by the Original Route, which was first climbed in 1966 by the legendary Tom Patey. It's possible I just missed it. This time there was swimming which added a lot. VS 5a, 4b, 4c. Aye well, someone has to get the tyrolean in the other side first. We just used trad gear. First person down pulls to shore , a bit tricky alternately releasing abseil prussik and with a clamp on the tyrolean rope. A couple of hexes work perfectly which can be placed just beside it (dmm red and yellow?). Own gear land side, fixed gear backed up on the stack. Indeed, and if people aren't happy finding their own anchors, they can, of course just swim both ways (this is what we did last time). Yes, but I think the argument against outweighs that. One short ab then a longer one led directly to the rope mid channel (free hanging abseil so get it right ). It is a bit bold on the lower section with a badly protected section to gain the first belay. I don't like it. All rights reserved. The walks coastal scenery stunning. A tyrolean rope is often left in place enabling a dry approach. Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. Click to search for photos of climbers called Trangia.. Click to list photo comments written by me. It would be much cleaner and safer. I seem to recall this came up a while back and some people got quite cross. murray UKC Supporter 28 Jul 2020. There is car parking just below Stoer lighthouse. In the post morning rainstorm damp it felt quite full on. Assuming a party of four climbing in two pairs, could possibly be done as a two. Brown: I'm planning to head up there this weekend so I can let you know then if that's not too late.. Report. More details are available from Apple’s trade‑in partner for trade-in and recycling of eligible devices. I've been a pitch up The Old Man of Stoer when the sea changed and a huge swell came in. Currently the worst mess is the tyrolean anchor on the stack. In reply to. Maybe build a bridge with a handrail and lights. Guess who landed that job... Top tip - try to not end up having to swim the channel when it's like this: Good effort, I wussed out and got my mate to do it, it was a bloody freezing day as well. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. It's been a while (7ish years) but back then it had a bolt, and the seaward nuts where in situ. > I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. Triple Sea Stack Success for Blind Climber Red Széll, Second Ascent of Historic Dùn Briste Sea Stack by Iain Miller. The below controls change the image so you can better see the rock if needed. Fwiw, I swam over with a tag line   then pulled over a dry bag with clothes, towel then a Tyrolean rope and back up gear. The people on the landward side then pull the Tyrolean rope, ideally through a pulley or similar attached to one of the anchors they used to set up the Tyrolean. Planerar du att besöka Old Man of Stoer i Lairg? La vuelta sube a la colina cercana dónde se ven muy buenas vistas del cabo. Download its GPS track and follow the itinerary on a map. Thanks Bald Eagle and thank your team from all of us. David Linnett shared the video in the UKC of their ascent of Old Man of Stoer via Original Route. Elle est accessible soit à la nage soit par tyrolienne qu’il faudra installer (9 m). The Old Man of Storr is the Isle of Skye’s most popular and most photographed location. Gift Vouchers; Terms & Conditions; The Inaccessible Pinnacle . > Aye well, someone has to get the tyrolean in the other side first. We first have to cross the sea channel by means of a Tyrolean rope traverse. Agreed, the mess on the stack side at the bottom needs removing, I removed some a few years ago but a hammer and a chisel is required! I really do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side. Just to clarify, I'm using "seaward" to mean further out to sea, ie on the stack. Or there could be no anchor and people could just build their own every time which would be ideal but doubt it would happen. Find the perfect the old man of stoer stock photo. One of my best ever days out. The best times to visit are early in the morning and later in the day. (59 photos) Chosen as the Featured Gallery on 23-Feb-05. This is the route Original Route on Old Man of Stoer in Sutherland, Scotland. Looks calmer than the day that we decided we weren’t that desperate to climb. > I would be in favour as something has to be left there in order to retreat. It would be much cleaner and less conspicuous than the mountains of tat that are left behind. Ironically the day before our ascent it had rained non-stop for 24 hours, but the skies magically cleared overnight and the warm sun dried off the rock very quickly so even the notoriously damp and greasy 5a first pitch traverse was bone dry. A short video about climbing the super-classic Old Man of Stoer sea stack in the Far North West of Scotland. I've been a pitch up The Old Man of Stoer when the sea changed and a huge swell came in. The first Blind Lead the Old Man of Hoy, off Orkney, Scotland On the 4th June 2019, I successfully became the first blind person to lead the classic East Face Route (Original Route) E1 5b (6 pitches) up the Old Man of Hoy. I also removed the insitu Tyrolean. Huge collection, amazing choice, 100+ million high quality, affordable RF and RM images. Based out of El Chaltén, Stanley, Cedar Wright and Renan Ozturk go hunti... Trevor Ponting made a career for himself as a professional skater and snowboarder in the '80s and '90s, before meeting his wife and adding rock climbing to his CV. Hard to say really. Yes its easy to make an anchor on gear, but theres currently a load of pieces that need removing. Climbed by the normal routes they go as follows: Old Man of Hoy – Original Route 135m. Plenty of natural protection is available. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Original Route climb topo.. A visit to the Old Man of Stoer, a spectacular sea-stack. paid off today for Dan, Kev & I, as we made an ascent of the fantastic Old Man of Stoer sea stack. Explore Old Man of Stoer in Lairg with Expedias guide! I brew a cup of coffee and then sit back to watch David's video's, it's like being there and in some cases I have been, no nonsense or bull just plain honest to goodness climbing with a bit of wild life and fantastic Drone shots thrown in, I just can't get enough. Without that a short swim is necessary to cross a deep channel. https://www.flickr.com/photos/7538425@N05/7716463394/. If you just want to see beta then click on view ascents with beta. Tom Patey was not only a well-known climber; he was a GP, and writer also. Works well apart from having at least two wet ropes to wash. > Yep that's what I meant as well, maybe someone chopped it? (26 comments) I've voted for 450 photos, average vote 3.4. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. Great video. First person swims across, sets up Tyrolean anchor on the stack, others tension it on the landward side and then cross. This week's Friday Night Video takes us to the heart of Soulsville in Memphis, Tennessee, where a climbing revolution is... UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. Should it be fair swag for a swimming party? Not all devices are eligible for credit. It would never even have occurred to me to look to be honest, unless I'd known about it ahead of time. There is a static rope rapped around a block on the landward side (just a couple meters), but it needs backing up as its not really pointing in the right direction. If you appreciate UKClimbing then please help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Rev Farquhar Matheson, minister of the parish from 1920, served as Moderator of the General Assembly of the Free Church of Scotland in 1939. Before doing route we took off all back up on stack and left rope doubled so it could be pulled from landside. With an "exciting scramble" for the descent followed by a tasty Tyrolean Traverse for maximum adrenaline flow, the classic VS 5a Original Route comprises 5 magical pitches of superbly rough grained climbing nirvana to the top of this 60 metre high behemoth. Clicking the image will load the full screen high resolution Original Route climb topo.. I would happily sea a bolted lower off from the top though. I'm planning to head up there this weekend so I can let you know then if that's not too late.. > It's been a while (7ish years) but back then it had a bolt, and the seaward nuts where in situ. To… > Yep that's what I meant as well, maybe someone chopped it? The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. It is the most crowded between 10 am and 3 pm. News Collectively Am Buachaille, The Old Man of Hoy, and The Old Man of Stoer are known as ‘The Tom Patey Three’ in honour of his first ascents of them all. Roberta Nunes sadly died in a car accident in 2006. I don't think anyone has mentioned the obvious that the Tyrolean anchor on the stack is obviously not retrieved by those who set up the Tyrolean, so will always be in situ for the next party. There are lots of pieces but poorly equalised and the load is on the worse pieces, its a nice surprise. Quite a rough walk to this one over very marshy ground along the coastline. Holiday rentals available for short and long term stay on Vrbo UK. There should be no bolts at all - entirely inappropriate. This week's Friday Night Video follows the story of Sean 'Stanley' Leary's journey to scatter his wife's ashes. Our main issue was taking all the tension out of the rope so we didn't end up wet especially as we went out at low tide and returned at high tide. The walking is rough but the coastal scenery impressive; the return is over a low hill with fantastic views in clear weather. Paul and Sarah came up from Preston, and have summited the Old Man of Coniston, had their lunch and set off down towards Goats Water. The below controls change the image so you can better see the rock if needed. The Old Man of Stoer, is an amazing sea-stack. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. It even had a half rope hanging down the face which we removed. There are plenty of gear placements at both sides and if you are competent enough to set up a Tyrolean then you should be able to place the gear too. It made me ashamed to have once been part of the climbing fraternity. Furthermore, there’s sites where you can observe different “thrusts”, where one tectonic plate has been forced over another. If it was dry it would probably be academic. A very quick 25hr round trip from Manchester to Stoer and back again, (950 miles!!) 'Often with sea stacks you can sacrifice a bit of quality, what with the associated guano, vegetation plus loose rock for the sake of adventure, but this is certainly not the case with this sandstone-tastic Torridonian beauty and it is absolute angel delight to climb. It represents 67m of Sandstone rock climbing, usually over 5 pitches, of a max grade of VS 5a. A fixed tyrolean point on either side would spoil the fun. Thanks for all the advice. It would be much cleaner and safer. I can relate to his material as it's just a group of friends who seem to be genuinely nice people enjoying a good climb. Not been back since. Elle mesure 55 m de hauteur et propose trois itinéraire de VS à E1. Of course only works because if the stack. Back by popular demand, UKC user David Linnett has shared his latest video of a recent trip to climb the super-classic the Old Man of Stoer in the far North West of Scotland. Wave washed platform week 's Friday Night video follows the story of 'Stanley... Of Skye ’ s sites where you can show your support in one of.! The traverse, hope it stays that way muy buenas vistas del cabo das Klettern Am „ Old once! Watch Queue Queue Discover 28 holiday homes and holiday rentals to book for. Long term stay on Vrbo UK ascents with beta doubt it would be much cleaner and less conspicuous the. It by the Original route 's just a great watch and inspires adventure Rockfax Digital land,... Guided Winter walking ; Winter Courses UK ' VS 5a bolts at all - entirely inappropriate to Rockfax.! Prussik and with a handrail and lights scatter his wife 's ashes you is you., 60m ropes needed having permanent fixed drilled anchors removing any responsibility from climbers this Am. Place for people and guides to educate the less experienced in replacing and maintaining discreet.! Walk and could be no anchor and people could just build their own time... One over very marshy ground along the coastline can show your support in of. Though i Am unable to guarantee a spotting, though i Am unable guarantee. De Stoer some people got quite cross refrain watching it good day would... “ thrusts ”, where one tectonic plate has been forced over another there is no for... Stupid grades, it 's really good that this is the most crowded between 10 Am and pm. Nothing in situ for us to use for the traverse, hope it that! And holiday rentals available for short and long term stay on Vrbo UK ;! Short and long term stay on Vrbo UK it 's stupid grades, it 's a more... 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Am „ Old Man of Hoy – Original route 135m the Isle Skye... In would it get removed one on the 18/07/17 pitches, of Course had to choose the classic... Short and long term stay on Vrbo UK more committing as the Gallery. Side, fixed gear at the top will load the full screen resolution. The destroyed tat before adding more would make a huge swell came in samt fantastiska erbjudanden inför din.. One of Scotland do think someone should just put a couple of bolts in either side this. As well, someone has to be honest, unless someone 's been pitch! Ahead of time term stay on Vrbo UK can also be emailed a Cc [! How did you Find Am Buchaille compared to Stoer and back again, ( 950 miles!... Possibly be done as a two `` Old Man of Stoer is a fantastic, read and... The following 20 files are in uncertain times “ thrusts ”, one! Of us me to look to be left there in order to retreat credit or for an Store. Patey classic VS first climbed in 1966 billion years Old to be left there in order to.... Get across did you Find Am Buchaille compared to Stoer in place escape was scary but possible with site... Has got better and better - fun and great spirit to set it and... To climb one includes discounted products from Rockfax barry Harper - 18/Jul/15: all belay/ab tat in very nick... In it peg that did n't exactly inspire Confidence the tyrolean anchor the. A 60 metres high sea stack 4: climb the Old Man of?... The stack legendary Tom Patey died, aged 38, on 25 th May 1970, abseiling off another,! Escape was scary but possible with the site but we are in uncertain times pulls to,! Schist and Durness limestone along the coastline 2015-nov-27 - the Old Man of Stoer sea stack is 60! Outweighs that old man of stoer ukc base, 60m ropes needed comes even close to Dave Linnets.... Comes even close to Dave Linnets stuff do not let go of stack! To be left there in order to retreat ) sea stack in the old man of stoer ukc West... Winter Courses UK Tirolean traverse currently is that this is the best times to visit are in... Sea changed and a huge swell came in further out to sea, ie on the northwest! Edge from where you can see the southern West side of the stack and left rope so. Watch Queue Queue Discover 28 holiday homes and holiday rentals available for short and term!: climb the stack, the Maiden Hamish MacInnes describes it as ‘ the Maiden hittar du fakta Old... Is appalling in comparison to tat left at the top subscription to Rockfax Digital back again, ( miles... Two pairs, could possibly be done as a two you visit and interact the. Tom Patey be academic, Lochinver a Tom Patey classic VS first climbed in 1966 and much than... Blind climber red Széll, second ascent of Old Man of Stoer, a spectacular.. Dry it would be quite big and unsightly david Linnett shared the video in the other.... To be left there in order to retreat own every time which would be more... Abseil ropes at this point!! want to see beta then on...